65 Mustang Restomod - Father and Son Build

It's alive!

2011-11-07T20:26:00.000-08:00

We have continued to make good progress on the car. Have been logging most of the work on our Youtube Channel here:

http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra

Latest Video:

Recent Progress - Suspension and Paint Work

2011-06-06T10:00:00.000-07:00

We are installing the Rod and Custom MII Kit. Here is a short video of the installation work.

We painted some of the suspension pieces prior to installation:

Spraying a Test Panel with Two Tone Metallic and Kandy Apple Paint:

A look back.... Engine Bay Transformation

2011-05-01T11:27:00.000-07:00

We first started working the front of the car and the engine bay in July 2009. Yesterday we shot a couple coats of Slicksand for the last stage of block sanding before top coat materials are applied. The engine bay will be shot with a black base coat and a pre-flattened urethane clear coat for durability.

How it looks Now:

While it now is in good shape, smooth, rust free, it didn't start that way. Some of these pics are in previous blog entries but thought I would summarize here:

The old suspension components were in bad shape, all rusted and completely locked up. We made quick work of them.

Over the years, battery acid eventually rusts out the battery tray, front apron, core support, and frame rail if not fixed. Unfortunately, needed all those things repaired. You can see that someone attempted a very poor repair using some galvanized sheetmetal and riveted it in place. You can get an idea of the frame rail in this pic.

Frame rail rust:

Only about 15" of the frame rail was rusted, so we replaced that with new metal.

Matt welding the new section in:

Core support and front apron cut off and ready for the scrap yard.

We cut out the shock towers also in preparation for the blockoff plates that are used with the Rod and Custom MII front suspension setup.

Block off plates and other sheetmetal smoothing:

New Core Support and Front Apron:

All sheetmetal finished up:

Epoxy and 2K Primer

2011-04-23T18:58:00.000-07:00

After 1.5 years of sheetmetal replacement, rust repair, and bodywork, Matt and I finally put the car in Epoxy primer today. Will be spraying 2K Urethane tomorrow. We are using PPG products. Here are some pics from today spraying the car.

Body Filler Work

2010-12-19T17:54:00.000-08:00

Often Matt and I discuss which part of the project we least like to do. Drilling out factory spot welds and removing old seam sealer are 2 of our least favorites. Ranking up there with those is block sanding body filler. It's a nasty messy job! Looking forward to getting this part finished so we can clean up the shop. Dust is on everything! We don't have too much more of it to do and will be ready for a coat of primer.

Today we worked on the passenger side quarter panel seams. We welded in a new quarter panel on both sides, and the weld seams were ground down and we are skim coating them with body filler.

Click Images to Enlarge

Here are a couple of pics from a previous blog update showing the weld seams we are applying body filler to. These old pics are from the drivers side, and we worked on the passenger side, but you get the idea!

Here is Matt prepping the area with the DA sander for a final skim coat of filler.

We are using Evercoats Rage Extreme plastic body filler. If you haven't tried it, you should. This stuff finishes off so smooth there is no longer a need to finish your repairs with polyester glazing putty.

Mixing the filler and hardner is not an exact science. The amount of hardner to filler is primarily determined by the weather. Cooler weather requires a little more hardner or you will be waiting a while to be able to sand it. The next couple of pics are Matt and I mixing up a batch of filler.

Normally a thin line of hardner across the filler is enough, but added a little more to help with the cold weather.

Mixing / blending

Applying Filler to the weld seam where the quarter panel meets the rocker. From the factory there is a 90 degree flange that is spot welded to the horizontal surface of the rocker from inside the car. We elected to butt weld, and fill over it to shave the seam. Fitting the theme of a few other things we have shaved on the car.

I mean, got to get in there close and hold your mouth just right!

We use Durablocks for block sanding.

The quarter panel did not fit very well where it welds to the inner wheel well, and we ended up with some slight imperfections in the metal around the opening so we did a skim coat of body filler

Doing a little block sanding...

You can see the high and low spots being revealed and filled.

And here is the butt weld seam with a skim coat of filler.

Passenger Side Fender

2010-04-18T18:26:00.001-07:00

(Matt is like: "Grandaddy, you sure you know what you are doing? !" )

This is an interesting blog entry. This project began in June, 2009 and was finished up today! We are calling this the "3G Fender Restoration" Three Generations of Ramsey's worked on it. In June 2009 my dad (Dan, aka Grandaddy Williams!) came out for a visit. While he was here we put him to work. He didn't seem to interested in spending alot of time working on the car, so we just removed the old paint from the fender, and hammered out some of the dents. After he left and headed back to Tennessee, we put the fenders to the side and worked on the rear section of the car, as documented in previous entries.

This weekened, we finished off the passenger side fender that we started almost one year ago!

Click Images to Enlarge

In June 2009, we had started with some aircraft stripper to loosen the old paint. It has multiple layers of paint, primer, and body filler.

Matt and Grandaddy removing sanding old paint off.

Gary and Grandaddy removing paint.

So fast forward to today... we started the rust repairs. A few small areas were cut out and patches made, but the area right behind the front tire was in bad shape. Very thin, pitted, rust holes. We used an aftermarket patch from American Designer. The fit was decent, and we were able to cut below the factory body line to preserve it's shape. Matt holding the patch panel, with the tape showing our cut line.

Old rusted area cut out.

You can see the rust in the old section that we cutout compared to the new patch.

The support behind the fender had some surface rust on it, so matt masked off the area so we could blast it and treat it with a rust converter and a coat of rust inhibiting paint (Zero Rust)

Here is the new patch welded in

Close up of the seem butt welded. Also, we are shaving the factory logos and trim, so a few small mounting holes were also welded up.

Welds grounded down and cleaned up. It's ready for a skim coat of filler to finish it off.

Passenger Side Door

2010-02-28T19:15:00.000-08:00

Click images to enlarge

Now that the Driver door is finished, we moved on to the Passenger side door. This side is in much better shape. With the exception of a few small dents, the sheetmetal is in great shape. No Rust! The door had been previously repainted. There was a skim coat of body filler on the entire door, primer, and a couple of layers of paint on top of that.

Matt got busy removing all of old paint, primer, and body filler. We use a few different tools for paint removal, in this pic he is an 8" 80 grit sanding disc on slow speed on a variable speed sander / buffer.

Once we removed all of the materials, it exposed 6 wholes that were filled with body filler. This is where trim was previously attached. Matt punched out some little patch disc's and got prepped them for welding.

The old man knocked out the welding. (pro fab skills on display!)

Hot!

Nice flat Rosette weld, with good penetration

All welds completed

Matt took the lead on grinding down the welds. He didn't volunteer to do this. He received some strong encouragement that motivated him to complete the job.

Weld ground down, it's now ready for a small amount of filler to finish it off.

Driver Side Door

2010-02-28T18:26:00.000-08:00

Now that we have the rear of the car all completely free of rust, we are working our way toward the front of the car. So next we are working on the Doors. This is the driver side door. The outer skin was in bad shape. It had taken a pretty big hit in an accident and had a fairly large crease on the body line. We decided to put a new skin on the door. Unfortunately the camera was acting up while we were doing this, so we don't have all the detailed pictures.

Click images to enlarge

Here is the door frame with the skin removed.

here is the inside of the skin after it was removed.

Inner door frame.

We missed a few steps in the process due to the camera, but here is inner door frame fully restored, all new hardware inside. New regulator, latch, handles, rollers, etc. It opens and closes as good as new. We also lined the new door skin with Second Skin's Damplifier sound deadner.

Here is the driver door on the car with the new skin.

We need to do some final tweaking to get the gaps fitting better, but it's pretty decent overall.

Rear Valance Work

2010-02-28T17:30:00.001-08:00

Matt and I never said we were Chip Foose or Rad Rides by Troy! We have had our first major setback on the car. We replaced both full quarter panels, new rear frame rails, new crossmember, tail light panel. With all this being replaced, and some of it with repro sheetmetal, we had a situation where the rear valance didn't fit right to each quarter panel.

Never fret, we will fill the gap with sheetmetal and mold/blend the seam and make it disappear.

Click images to enlarge

Here you can see the gap between the rear valance and quarter panel.

We made a little template, and Matt cut out a piece of sheetmetal to fill the gap, here it is tacked in place.

Patch fully welded and smoothed.

The weld was covered with a think layer of water proof fiberglass reinforced body filler. It's made by Dyna-Glass.

The Dyna-glass was block sanded, and a couple of skim coats of Evercoat Rage Extreme filler were applied and block sanded. We spot primed the areas with PPG Epoxy primer.

Trunk Pans and Tail light panel complete

2010-02-28T17:18:00.000-08:00

After the frame rails were repaired, we put in the new cross member and trunk pans. The trunk pan installation was probably the easiest things we have done on the car to date. Piece of Cake!

Click images to enlarge

Here you can see the driver side trunk pan welded in, gas tank installed.

Closeup of the Rosette Weld technique (plug weld).

Here is a shot of both pans in, before we put welded the tail light panel in.

Most of the sheetmetal we have put on the car has been reproduction pieces stamped in China. It's cheap, but usually doesnt fit well. Since the tail light panel is a prominent part of the rear of the car, we spent the extra $$$ and got the stamping from original Ford tooling.

And here is a shot of the rear of the car with quarter extensions and decklid isntalled with the new tail light panel... it's coming along slowly but surely...

Rear Frame Rails Replaced

2010-02-28T16:14:00.000-08:00

Matt and I expected to have alot of work to do on the rear part of the car, but honestly thought it was in better shape than the rest. We started peeling back the layers of paint, fiberglass matt, and filler where someone had repaired some major rust improperly. We ended up pulling the full trunk pans out, and replacing the last 18" or so of frame rails on both sides. We also put in new trunk pans, tail light panel, rear valance, and replaced both quarter panels.

Click to enlarge pics

Some Rust!

This was hiding underneath layers of fiberglass matt, fiber filler, and paint. Ouch!

So we welded in some bracing to keep things in tact and cut out all the rust.

The frame rails are galvanized from the factory, so they were actually in decent shape, but the inner supports for the spring shackles and the tie downs, were uncoated mild steel, and as you can see they were rusted pretty bad. So we decided to replace the last 18" or so.

Frame rail section cutout.

Here is the piece we cutout compared to the new replacement section.

We cut the new piece the same length, and clamped it in... making sure to keep it square and level. Don't want the car going down the road crucked (if that is even a word).

Matt welded in the new piece... his welding skills are coming along.

And here it is all painted... We did both sides the same way.

Quarter Panel Replacement

2009-11-01T16:29:00.000-08:00

Click on images to enlarge.

It's been a while since the last update. We have made progress, but it's been slow lately. The quarter panels appeared to be in decent shape and thought we would just patch the lower rear portion behind each wheel where water collects, but upon removing the paint, alot of cancerous rust was exposed, so we decided to do quarter panel replacements in the rear.

The green tapeline represents the area we thought we were going to cutout and replace that lower area.

As you can see, the there is some pretty nasty cancer on a compound curve, and would be difficult to patch, plus once you see what was behind this, you will see why the decision was made to cut it all out.

OK, so here it is all cut out. The outer edge of the wheel house is in bad shape.

Here is some is bracing we put in place in the rear section of the car to keep everything in tact while the major structural areas were cut out.

So here is the new full quarter panel mocked into place with sheetmetal screws and clamps to hold it temporarily. You can see the gap to be butt welded is decent for the most part, except for a bout a 8" section. For that wide gap, we made a backing strip and plug welded it to the new quarter panel.

But before we welded on the new quarter panel, we removed all the surface rust from the inner structure and treated it picklex20 to convert the remaining rust, and top coated it with Zero rust. The lower part of the inner wheel house was repaired by but welding in an replacement panel. Looks alot better than the first pic posted above, don't you think?!?!

OK, so on to welding the new quarter panel in place. Just like all sheetmetal but welds, we put tack welds about 1-2" apart skipping around to prevent warping the panel by putting too much heat in it, then after all the tacks were 1-2" apart, we welded between them with a small stitch weld.

A few plug welds where the new quarter panel attaches to the original decklid reveal.

From the factory, the quarter panel spot welds to the rocker on the inside creating a seam on the outside. We decided to weld the seam on the outside and smooth it down for a "shaved" look. We plan to do something similar with a number of other factory seams on the car.

The last step is to smooth all the welds down to get them ready for a skim coat of lightweight body filler and epoxy primer.

New Quarter panel now in place

While we had the quarter panel off, we took time to recondition the quarter windows, and install new window regulator. Before you could barely roll them up and down, now work good as new.

Firewall Flange Repair

2009-05-03T14:30:00.000-07:00

Due to leaking seals, lack of protective coatings, etc, the cowl / firewall area rusts out on almost all classic mustangs.

This car really need a full firewall. The toe boards were rusted out, and the top flange of the firewall where the cowl mounts is damaged from the previous owner drilling out the spot welds, and the flange is rusted out in several areas as well. The firewall on these unibody cars is what connects the front subrame to the car and I did not want to mess with having the front subrame disconnected from the rest of the car.

As usual, Matt was along side doing a great job helping. Holding things in place, grinding, keeping tools organized, etc.

The thing that makes repairing the flange difficult is that it is 90 degree angel, and has a compound curve to it. So here is a closeup of the corner.

The firewall is thin, so we are using 22 gauge sheetmetal. Cutout a piece the right length and the right witch to math the size of the factory flange.

Matt clamped the piece down and bent the edge to create a 90 deg flange.

By doing 6-12" at a time you can matchup the height and curvature of the factory flange. You can see the cut line drawn by laying the patch panel in place and tracing it out.

Bad section cutout.

By cutting reliefs in the vertical part of the flange, the horizontal part of the flange can be shaped to match the factor contour. This is important in ensuring the cowl fits back in place properly.

Flange is partially welded. Once this is complete further shaping of the edge can by done before the reliefs are welded up.

Reliefs welded.

Here is the piece welded into the front corner. The corner had some lower so an od shaped patch was made.

And here is the corner with all new metal in.

A shot of the completed firewall. Pretty big contrast to the pics above.

Interior Restore - Part 8 - Firewall - Toeboard

2009-04-19T18:55:00.000-07:00

Matt and I got out in the shop this morning and did a little work. In addition to the full floor pan being replaced, we also needed the toeboards replaced. This is the angled piece that joins the firewall to the floor pan.

I didn't take a pic of the passenger side before we started, but here is a pic of the drivers side. As you can see, it's pretty well rotted away. We were very fortunate that the frame rail extensions that the toeboards weld to are in good shape.

We started with a toeboard repair panel from NPD. This is 18 gauge sheetmetal that is stamped in a shape that closely resembled the original shape, but it was far from "drop in and weld" piece.

We were having a very difficult time getting the complete unit to fit properly, so Matt cut the repair piece in half. This worked out much better. Here is the right side welded in.

Here is the left side of the repair panel trimmed to fit.

Left side mocked up and tacked in place.

And the final unit welded in. The piece but welded to the firewall and trans trans tunnel and plug welded to the frame rail extensions and where it meets the floor pan to duplicate the factoryh spot welds.

Interior Restore - Part 7 - Welding Lesson

2009-04-19T18:49:00.000-07:00

Decided to let matt try his hand at welding. Probably should have done it sooner, but I am just learning myself. He actually did pretty good. We did a few plug welds and stitch welds. Not bad for a first time. Click to enlarge each image.

Finished plug welds

Some Decent Penetration on the backside

Interior Restore - Part 6 - Floor Installed

2009-02-21T18:45:00.000-08:00

After a couple of weeks without working on the car, we finally got the floor installed.

Matt did some final prep and grinding:

5/16 Holes punched for plug welding

Interior Restore - Part 6 - Floor Pan Prep

2009-01-30T18:36:00.000-08:00

The rocker panels, frame rails, torque boxes, etc, basically everwhere the floor pan attaches to or covers, was sanded, treated with picklex 20 rust converter and painted with Zero rust paint.

Here is what it looked like before. You can see all the old paint, primer, and some surface rust:

Notice the two tone paint job! :-). On the rockers, I will use weld through primer on the lower part. The top part of the paint will be masked off and the bottom sprayed with weld through primer. The paint line represents where the floor pan originally was which will help when putting the new one back in and getting it fitting right.

Matt getting jiggy with the DA on the bottom of the floor pan. Getting it all scuffed up and ready for 3 coats of Zero Rust. I asked him which he liked better, block sanding the roof or sanding on the floor pan. He said the floor pan was alot easier.

Interior Restore - Part 5 - Dash Paint/Repair

2009-01-30T18:08:00.000-08:00

The dash on a 65-66 is actually part of the frame. The front windshield reveal is part of the dash. The cowl is spot welded to this area from the factory. The previous owner of the car removed the cowl by dilling out all the spot weld instead of using a spot weld cutter. I welded up all the holes while matt used held a copper backer in place.

Here you can see the dash / windshield reveal area with all the holes:

Holes welded up:

Welds ground smooth and painted with Zero Rust Paint:

The dash had quite of bit of surface rust. No pitting or rotted out areas.

We sanded it down good with 150 and 220 grit paper. Treated it with picklex-20 rust converter. Then sand and scuffed with Zero Rust. Black zero rust leaves smooth satin finish. Should look good on the interior as a finished product.

Interior Restore - Part 4 - Final Cutout

2009-01-28T18:41:00.000-08:00

I am begining to wonder if this is a father and son project, or just a father project. Spent a little time tonight (Wednesday Night) getting the remainder of the floor pan out and Matt wasn't interested in helping. The new one piece floor pan from NPD includes new torque box covers. The old ones were in decent shape, but had some minor rust on the lower edges, So I went ahead and cut them out. What a PITA... These things were like 8 or 10 gauge, so drilling out the spot welds took alot of work. Probably spent one hour one each side getting them out. Click to enlarge each pic

So how many tools does it take to cut out a floor?

Drilling spot welds and using an air chisel to peal away the remaining floor pan

I had already planned to widen the wheel tubs (inner housings) to help make room for the 18X9.5's, but after getting all the floor out, I am also going to put a full trunk pan in the car. You can see the rust has gotten down into the seam between the wheel housing and the transition area trunk pan.

Passenger side torque box cover drilled out and cut.

Top removed, and guess what has been living here? Hmm... Good thing we have the feline fabricator.

Here is what the new torque box covers look like mocked up.

Pile of mangled up floor pan sheetmetal

Finally, every last bit of the floor pan has been removed. Got to do some work prepping the frame rail extensions, rocker panels, etc for welding in the new pan.

New Floor Pan Ready to go in.... more to come soon...

Interior Restore - Part 3 - Roof Paint

2009-01-18T16:23:00.001-08:00

Today we continued the interior restoration. The inside of the roof was sanded/scuffed thoroughly. Old factor seam seeler was heated up and scraped off. heavily rusted areas were treated with Picklex 20 Rust Converter prior to painting. Most of the rusted color you see on the roof is not rust, it is the factory red oxide primer. The interior is being painted with Black Zero Rust Coating. Zero rust creats an air tight moisture barrier which helps to control corrosion and Rust. I sprayed most of it with the HVLP gun mixed at 15%, while hard to reach areas were sprayed with the small pre-val gun mixed at 10%. Click to enlage pics

The package tray was rusted where it was spot welded to the floor and on the passenger side sail panel mounting point. It had to come out anyway for the mini tubs.

Interior Restore - Part 2 - Floorpan Cutout

2009-01-17T15:36:00.000-08:00

We cut the major sections out on both sides. We are putting a full floor pan from NPD in the car, so eventually we will cut out the rest of the trans/driveshaft tunnel and will remove the rear sections of the floor pan. We just wanted to remove the major parts, so we could work on the inner roof and being able to stand up in the car with the floor out and the car up high on jack stands.

Interior Restore - Part 1 - Before

2009-01-17T15:30:00.000-08:00

OK, today we started the floor pan replacement and interior work. We still have to rid the interior of rust, prep, and paint with Zero Rust (Better than POR15). Before we started, we covered the roof work we previously completed in plastic to protect it. Below are a few pics of what the floor pan looked like before we started. The person we had bought the car from attempted a repair by cutting out the rusted areas and cutting some very thick sheetmetal and putting it in place with rivets. They also fabricated a new seat riser using the same method. Click pics for larger view

Me and Matt Messing Around

2009-01-17T15:24:00.000-08:00

Matt and I jumped out there to day and cut the floor pan out of the car. A few pics of us with some tools and gear...

A few pics from today's work, ripping out the old floor pan.

Roof Repair - Part 3 - Epoxy Primer

2009-01-11T18:33:00.000-08:00

Well, this has been the worst part of the car and most time consuming. In the future on a job like this, i will definitely just put a whole new roof skin on the car. It has certainly been a learning experience. The roof repair is now complete.

I was real proud of Matt. He worked hard on this part of the car, block sanding, wire wheeling, preping, and just generally being a big help!

After all the rusted areas were either replaced with new metal or properly rust treated (blasted adn coverted), the roof was sprayed with 2 coats of PPG DP50LF 2 part epoxy primer mixed at 2:1 with the PPG activator. Click images to enlarge

Gravity Feed HVLP Gun with 1.4 Tip, PPG Primer, and Evercoat Rage Extreme. This epoxy primer is meant to be applied to bare metal and filler, and does an exceptional drive of sealing everything from allowing any air or moisture to reach the substrate, so if there happened to be any small amounts of rust left in the pits (doubtful) will not spread any further as rust requires air and/or moisture to spread.

Roof Repair - Part 2 - Dent and Rust Repair

2009-01-11T18:07:00.000-08:00

Part 2 of the repair process is to address the rust pitting and dents. As you can see, the front passenger side is in bad shape. All rust pits were sand blasted with a spot blaster, treated with Picklex 20 rust coverter. After the picklex 20 had a few days to cure and convert any remaining rust, the area was scuffed and filled.

Rust Pitting repaired by blasting out the rust. Some of the larger rust spots blew completely through, so small patch panels were made and welded in place.

Ridge Crease with

Big crease in on edge of roof above drip rail on driver side

Big dent at back of roof near rear window opening.

Dent pulled out, and studs clipped off. The remainder was ground down, and a little body filler applied to finish off the repair.

This roof was very thin, and had some oil canning which made it difficult to get level. all of the tiny white spots are where rust pits were, that were blasted out and filled and block sanded.

Entire roof / filler was block sanded using 40 / 80 / 180 grit paper using various dura-block's

Roof Repair - Part 1 - Shave Drip Rail

2009-01-11T17:37:00.001-08:00

The Roof was the really the worst part of the car. Drip rails were rusted out, lots of rust pit holes, and several dents and creases. This is part one of the roof repair and demonstrates cutting out the rusted drip rail and sail panel sections, welding in new metal and prepping for paint. Click to enlarge pictures

1. Sheet metal screws secure the roof to the inner structure (holes welded up later)

2. Rusted Drip rail cutout

3. Repair piece cut out of sheetmetal and clamped in place

Repair piece tacked in placed

3. To keep the heat down to prevent warping the roof, the entire new piece had to be tack welded. I didn't have my welder on the best setting, but still got decent penetration on the backside.

4. Welds smoothed out

5. Moisture got underneath the factory lead seam where the sail panel meets the quarter panel so the rusted section was cut out. The inner structure had some minor surface rust/pitting which was blasted and treated with a rust converter.

6. New Metal welded in and smoothed

7. Dynaglass water proof short strand fiber glass filler was applied, then lightly sanding and covered with Evercoat Rage Gold plastic body filler

8. Filler Block sanded and Smoothed

9. Final Blocking and Smoothing

6-18-2008 - The Purchase

2009-01-11T17:10:00.000-08:00

I started this blog in Jan of 09, 7 months after the car was purchased, so back tracking a little to capture the begining.

We knew we wanted to do the car right, and to modify and customize alot of it, so the thought was, why start with a 5K driver just to have to tear it all down, find the hidden rust, etc? So we bought this 65 Coupe in El Dorado Arkansas, which is 5 hours from Dallas, TX. We found the car on craigslists, and as some of you know, the pic size on craigslist is limited, and the pics were taken from a distance so it was hard to tell just exactly what kind of shape the car was in. The car was advertized to have new floor pans, sandblasted and painted frame rails, and almost no rust. Well, that was not the case when we got to ARK to pickup the car. We were very disappointed, but it was cheap ($1300), and we had already spent time and gas money to get there so we brought it home. Here are some pics of how it looked when we picked it up. Except the decklid, pretty much every other panel on the car is either rusted or dented up badly. Good news is reproduction panels are readily available and pretty inexpensive, and we can do all the work ourselves. Going to be alot of work!!

The Begining

2009-01-10T08:53:00.000-08:00

My 14 year old son (Matt) and I are working on a 65 mustang project that will eventually be his daily driver. Our goal is to have it running by the start of his Junior year in High school, so only a couple of years away.

We have had the car for several months now and have already started on it. We will be going back and capturing the work we have already completed, then we will keep regular updates as we make progress.

Here are some of the things the car will have:

- Mustang II Style Tubular Coilover Front Suspension

- 4 Link Coilover rear suspsion with modified wheel tubs to fit the 18X9.5's

- 2Jz-GTE Twin Turbo Supra Motor with 6 Speed Trans

- But before all that, full sheetmetal repair, rust repair, body and paint